In a few hundredths of a second the shutter closes, capturing the moment. It will be one of our few ways back to it when the past has become a foreign country. The image is perhaps slightly out of focus, the colours too bright or too dark and we  pick out little details in the background which we hadn’t noticed at that all important moment when we took the picture. For many years, I preferred to look at the photos of others; the portraits of Cartier-Bresson, the carefree heyday of early twentieth century French society in Lartigue’s exquisite shots, the pared down minimalism in Irving Penn’s work.  Since I started blogging however, I became interested in recording the things around me, the places that I discover, the changing light. Often when looking at my pictures afterwards, I become aware that I hadn’t achieved what I set out to do, that the eye sees things differently from the lens and that there is still so much to learn.  I think back to Andreas Feininger’s wonderful but daunting book on photography where he describes how we must silence all of our other senses in order to focus purely on seeing.

For lovers of photography, there can be no finer place in Berlin than the C/O Berlin on Oranienburger Straße. Located in the former Postführamt, it’s one of the true really authentic places in an area which has become a tourist trap. Paint peels off the walls, a friend of mine claims it smells rather like GDR disinfectant was used inside and there are still the old markings of a basketball court in one of the rooms upstairs. I love going inside the C/O because it’s not all clean and polished and because what really matters is the art. When I heard there would be an exhibition of Peter Lindbergh’s work, I wondered whether it would appeal to me. He’s recognised as one of the greatest photographers but there’s something about fashion photography that generally puts me off. The images are often glossy, airbrushed, the girls are anorexic and the clothes overpriced and awful. Stepping inside the C/O exhibition, I felt relieved to discover gritty, beautifully composed shots, starting with those taken on the streets of Berlin. Grainy black and white images of Alex and the statues close to Unter den Linden, photographed from a moving car make me feel that this is someone who has grasped the essence of the city I love so much.  A film shows him walking through the forest with his good friend Wim Wenders while Lindbergh steps in front of the camera for a change as Wenders’ wife photographs them. If the girls are still slender, the locations are wonderful; in disused factories or deep in the woods. Small imperfections are visible on the skin and most amazing of all for me is the portrait of Jeanne Moreau with all the layers stripped away. There is simply her wonderful face, full of expression and character, still with fire inside her. I admire her fearlessness for showing herself as she really is and also Lindbergh for finding that beautiful. It makes me hungrier than ever to capture that decisive moment.

At the C/O, Oranienburger Straße 35/36, 10117 Berlin daily from 11-20 until 9th January, 2011

The visitors who get out at Frankfurter Tor may find themselves wondering if this is the same Berlin. It’s a far cry from the cosiness of Ostalgia, even if the East Side Gallery is within walking distance and Trabi safaris still drive past sometimes. Just a few streets away, the cafés of Simon Dach Straße in the heart Friedrichshain are crammed with locals and tourists taking brunch or stopping off from the flea market just around the corner on Boxhagener Platz. I cannot pretend that this is a slice of authentic GDR but somehow, it’s a place that has always fascinated me ever since I first came here late one evening a few years ago

I cannot pretend socialist realism architecture is beautiful but the scale of it overwhelms you. There are the two imposing towers with their green roofs which can be glimpsed as you take the S-Bahn from East to West, at the top of which you may see lights and silhouettes whenever the space is rented for exclusive parties. Traffic still constantly roars down the wide avenue, making it nearly impossible to cross the road but the place feels strangely deserted. This used to be the heart of East Berlin called Stalinallee, where the streets would be lined with people to see processions or big name visitors driving by, the apartments in the imposing cream and grey buildings were positively luxurious compared to others on offer in the GDR and as a result much sought after.

This is not a place where you will find wonderful restaurants and cafés, the ones I’ve tried can be described as decent at best but you don’t come here for that but rather to try and get a glimpse into an already distant history of a city that you never knew.

On the morning of my last visit, rain lashed down on the city, washing the last remaining colours away but on my way in the tram, I stubbornly persist in my hope that it will have stopped by the time I arrive.

The question I’ve often asked myself is whether people are still keen to live here. I look up at the thin windows, just as an elderly woman steps out onto the balcony; perhaps she has lived here since the flats were first completed and the idea comes to my mind of how much I’d like to look inside her apartment. Pushing open the door to a building sometimes left open, you might even find the old wooden letter boxes and gaze up at the seemingly never ending flights of staircases. There are still some positive signs however; small statues line up at the tops of buildings, including those of Trümmerfrauen or women who helped to clear away the ruins of Berlin after the Second World War. They were given priority for the flats here as a sign of gratitude for their hard work. Large balconies are covered with masses of flowers and plants and from an open window I can hear music playing.

I come across a young couple speaking English who pause briefly for a coffee. We smile at each other as I watch them go past with their dog whom the man addresses as “Mademoiselle”. “No, not Mademoiselle”, the girl insists, “Whenever I need her to do something, I call her Madame”. The grey dampness of the day has made me tired and cold and I stop off at a café which I hope won’t be so bad. A disco ball is suspended from the ceiling above chintz covered furniture. I take a seat at the window and opt for a latte macchiato and plum Streusalkuchen. I’m flattered that the man who takes my order refers to me as “junge Frau” despite my recently turning 30!

The coffee is too strong and topped with chocolate which I hate and the cake might not be so bad, except for the artificially tasting sauce they’ve poured over. Nevertheless, I eat and drink, still rather charmed by the atmosphere of the place which couldn’t be more different from Starbucks. An older couple come in and order coffee, before asking the owner, a Turkish guy how long he has been in Berlin. “Since 1976”, he informs them. “Ah, but then you first came to West Berlin. Tell me, is anyone interested these days in the old Stalinallee?” This is precisely the question I’d also like to ask but the man simply shrugs his shoulders.

In spite of my fondness for this place and its sense of melancholy, certain things disturb me. Some chains like Rossmann and McDonalds occupy some of the buildings, contrasting in the ugliest possible way with their brightly coloured signs while Berlin institutions struggle to stay in business because this is no longer a popular place to shop. Wonderful places like the Kosmos Kino and the Karl Marx Bookshop have disappeared; the former is now rented out for events while the old sign is all that remains of the latter. Important East German writers and intellectuals used to gather there for readings and discussions once. I had wanted to go there after seeing Das Leben der anderen 4 or 5 years ago and was lucky enough to achieve my dream a couple of years later. Already the deep wooden shelves seemed rather empty and there were few customers but I managed to find a copy of Kafka’s stories which I’m attached to for that reason.

Alongside, a sign tells you that this was the location of the old Rose theatre, destroyed in the Second world War and never rebuilt. The columns of the façade make me want to slip on an evening gown and join the crowds going in for the performance.

The future for the old Stalinallee seems open; its buildings stretching over 2-3 kilometers are thankfully protected but I wonder if they will all be occupied by bars, become abandoned once the old residents have gone or be bought by foreign investors. Turning my back to the street, I hope at least things look brighter than the threatening clouds gathering above me.

Text and photos by Vanessa. She is an English trainer and presentation coach who has been living in Berlin since 2007. Her other blog is Coffee and Pie.

Suzy Fracassa

Have you ever wanted to try every dish on the menu?

Suzy Fracassa, a 43 –year-old chef born in Detroit from Italian parents, can make that dream come true. “Little dish”, her private dining events in Neukölln offer you the possibility to eat just the right amount of a dish (and pay a proportional amount of money, which means it’s gastronomy but you won’t end up broke) to be able to try another one right after that.

Suzy’s delicacies

Imagine a creamy, full-body butternut squash with incredible homemade croutons (4 Euros). Imagine the best pork meat you’ve ever eaten in your life, so tender that you could slice it with a teaspoon, topped with a wonderful spicy sauce of Asian inspiration (7,50 Euros). Dream of surprising sweet-sour vegetables atop of a crostini full with the flavor of pure olive oil… (4 Euros). Beef marinated in wine, apple shortcakes and airy whipped cream, al-dente orecchiette with olive cream just like in Rome… everything is served by the best-mannered waiter we’ve ever encountered in Berlin.

Suzy Fracassa has lived in Berlin since 1999. Her interest in cooking began with waitressing in restaurants in New York, grabbing ideas and inspiration from the plates she was bringing to the tables. “I’m a messy cook”, says Suzy. “That’s because I never had a formal training”. So much the better for her cuisine. “I get easily bored. I like to entertain myself and the others! I don’t like food to be too serious and I’m always changing the menus and experimenting.”

Fortuna’s Feast in Neukölln, Wesertr.58

Little Dish is a invitation only event extended to members of Suzy’s extended family. You can easily become a member by contacting Suzy: feast@fortunastable.de

Suzy Fracassa owns a catering company, Fortuna’s table, and works for weddings, christenings, birthdays as well as Christmas parties or photo shoots.

Her place in the Weserstrasse in Neukölln is also available for rent, for small parties customized for people’s budgets and wishes.

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FORTUNA’S FEAST

Weserstrasse 58, 12045 Berlin

feast@fortunastable.de

Fortuna’s Feast is also on Facebook

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Report by Magda, photos by Katrina (our new contributor from Sydney, Australia, just settled in Berlin!)

A graffiti in the Alte Schönhauser Strasse, Berlin-Mitte. In Berlin’s most fashionable area, between a “Made in China” sneakers store and a Hugo Boss’s window, you might sometimes run into little rebellious surprises like this one.

And, by the way, dear readers : sorry for our long Sleeping-Beauty-sleep. Summer has scattered our contributors all over the world, from Portland to Elba to England.

But we are back to work with new interviews coming about people who fight in Berlin for environment, artists who stand up for non-commercial beauty, new contributors – and, of course, the results of our ethical modeling contest.

Bis dann!

Playgrounds in Berlin are different. Like no others I’ve seen before. Each one original and well suited to the space it occupies. Here we see the playground at Hohenstaufenplatz in Kreuzberg. This one may not be quite as dangerous to its small visitors, but its every bit as suited to its space. The car tire octopus swings are my favorite element in this sandy oasis, but the classic rip line ride also gets me every time.

I don’t remember when I shot this video, but after a having a falafel (see aluminum foil) I must have felt inclined to document the serenity and particularity of the moment here in my corner of Kreuzberg…

Notes about the origins of the name for this platz:

The House of Hohenstaufen (or the Staufer) was a dynasty of German kings lasting from 1138 to 1254. Three of these kings were also crowned Holy Roman Emperor. In 1194 the Hohenstaufen also became Kings of Sicily. Staufen, the adjective and plural of Staufer, is also the name of their castle in Swabia built by the first known member of the dynasty, Frederick I, Duke of Swabia. Therefore the dynasty is sometimes called Swabian dynasty after the family’s ducal origin. Hohenstaufen Castle is located on a mountain of the same name near Göppingen.

The 9. Waffen SS Panzerdivision “Hohenstaufen”, was a German Waffen-SS Armoured division which saw action on both the Eastern and Western Fronts during World War II. The division was activated on the 31 December 1942. The men of the division were German conscripts aged 18, with a cadre of experienced staff from the Leibstandarte SS Adolf Hitler.

source: en.wikipedia.org see for yourself: see for yourself.

Video and text by Wolf

Second-hand top from the DAS NEUE SCHWARZ concept-store*

Are you a woman between 18 and 70 years old?

Are you beautiful and/or sexy, modern, retro, elegant, crazy, funny – BUT NOT SKINNY?

Do you live in Berlin?

Are you interested in ethical, recycled and green fashion (NO CHILD LABOR, NO SWEATSHOPS) ?

How would you like to win our ethical modeling contest? APPLY NOW!

Compete and win a photoshoot with David Ramirez, stylist and co-owner of the vintage store DAS NEUE SCHWARZ.

We are looking for a model with lots of personality and real feminine curves – no size or age criteria! Anyone can compete! (apart from Kate Moss and her anorexic sisters).

HOW TO APPLY

Please send us the following documents at berlinisnotforsale@googlemail.com

1. a portrait

2. a head-to-toe picture

3. your name, firstname, adress, phone number, email address and age

4. your garment size

* Das Neue Schwarz

Temporary store : Mulackstrasse 32, 10119 Berlin-Mitte

(Moving to Mulackstrasse 37, 10119 Berlin-Mitte from August 15th, 2010)

Is it possible to open a gallery at the age of 22?And without any money?

Yes, you can. Julie Grosche and Aurélia Defrance did it. The two French Fine Arts students decided to move to Berlin two years ago to create the PMGalerie.

The PMGalerie is now a favourite exhibition place in Neukölln for young artists and art-lovers.

PMgalerie

contact@pmgalerie.com
Julie Grosche / Aurélia Defrance
Selchower Strasse 12
12049 Berlin – Neukölln

tel : (0049)30 347 13 680

Opening time : Thursday to Saturday, 14 – 19pm and by appointment

U8 – Boddinstrasse

Suong: I am going by bike to lose some weight!

The common Berliner could not live without his or her bike. With or without a basket, black Gazelle or mountain bike, in Berlin, your bicycle is your best friend to go to work, wander along the canal, or come back home after a drunk night. Berlin offers numerous broad bicycle paths, in opposition to many European capitals.

An alternative to cars and public transportation, biking makes you also fit… and 100% environment friendly.

Luise, Nicolas and Magda have been hunting for the coolest bikers of the day in Mitte (U-Bahn Rosa-Luxemburg Platz).

Big thanks to them all!

Chrissi: My bike and I are a unit!

Vollbrecht: My bike is two weeks old and I haven’t ridden any bike for the last two years.

Ralf: I like going by bike because I think this kind of sport is pretty cool. In general, I have a ‘green’ attitude and biking is eco-friendly in a non political way.

Hans-Peter: A bike is the best means of transport in a city like Berlin!

Martin: I come from the Netherlands, just like my bike. It is more than 30 years old and has no gear changing, but it just means that it cannot get broken!

Steven: I’m the smallest club in Berlin (he’s got an integrated radio in his four seat bike, broadcasting techno…).

Photos by Nicolas, text by Luise.

CONCERT + DJ AT MADAME CLAUDE IN KREUZBERG

Mal Skene (FOLK MUSIC, SONGWRITER) is playing a show at Madame Claude in K’berg – U-bahn Schlesisches Tor.
Stage time *9.30 pm*

Lübbener Str.19
10997 BERLIN (Kreuzberg)
www.myspace.com/madame_claude

FOOD AND ART AT THE PMGalerie IN NEUKÖLLN

Photo by Ivo Gretener

Join the SCCBS buffet for the finissage of Juliette Bonneviot and Aude Pariset.

The gallery owners cook themselves! Entrance is free.

Opening hours during exhibition time: Thursday trough Saturday, 2-7pm and by appointment

For further information contact@PMgalerie.com